The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest

Anatoli Boukreev

Language: English

Pages: 416

ISBN: 0312206372

Format: PDF / Kindle (mobi) / ePub


Everest, the major motion picture from Universal Pictures, is set for wide release on September 18, 2015. Read The Climb, Anatoli Boukreev (portrayed by Ingvar SigurĂ°sson in the film) and G. Weston DeWalt s compelling account of those fateful events on Everest.

In May 1996 three expeditions attempted to climb Mount Everest on the Southeast Ridge route pioneered by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in 1953. Crowded conditions slowed their progress. Late in the day twenty-three men and women-including expedition leaders Scott Fischer and Rob Hall-were caught in a ferocious blizzard. Disoriented and out of oxygen, climbers struggled to find their way down the mountain as darkness approached. Alone and climbing blind, Anatoli Boukreev brought climbers back from the edge of certain death. This new edition includes a transcript of the Mountain Madness expedition debriefing recorded five days after the tragedy, as well as G. Weston DeWalt's response to Into Thin Air author Jon Krakauer.

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expedition that Beidleman had made to Makalu with Boukreev, Adams had climbed to 7,400 meters ful before turning back. If he was going best advice his to climb Everest, money could Boukreev was one of the guides is Adams wanted the When he heard that with whom Mountain buy. This is a typical way to allow a novice guide to win his stripes. the way Boukreev began his own career as a guide. It THE CLIMB 44 Madness had contracted, he made the decision to go and negotiated a price of

in away. It hit with the oxygen news, but was reassured by Todd's promise to make good on the order. Then, Boukreev had to break some more bad news. The high-altitude tent he'd ordered made to his specifications in the Urals was, like the oxygen, still in Russia. It was supposed to have come in on a charter flight that was carrying a Russian expedition to the Himalaya, but the charter had been delayed. The Mountain Madness clients were supposed to arrive in four days! That night Scott invited

Fischer was." to spread the . . . . . . had been prepared for the Mountain Madness clients coming from the United States called for them to depart Los Angeles on March 23, to spend some time in Kathmandu, and then on March 28 to fly to Lukla (2,850 m). It was a prudent and conser- The itinerary that vative itinerary, designed specifically to help the clients more commonly referred to as altitude sickness, which is brought on by going too high too fast, making large increases in

Fischer was." to spread the . . . . . . had been prepared for the Mountain Madness clients coming from the United States called for them to depart Los Angeles on March 23, to spend some time in Kathmandu, and then on March 28 to fly to Lukla (2,850 m). It was a prudent and conser- The itinerary that vative itinerary, designed specifically to help the clients more commonly referred to as altitude sickness, which is brought on by going too high too fast, making large increases in

like, 'Hey, it's too late now,' and our competitors had all lied and said they had the permit when they didn't, and their trips ran. So in '96, we just said, 'Oh yeah, we have a permit' but we didn't get it in hand until February." . . . me what was doing in Kathmandu, and him that I'd just come off Dhaulagiri, the second time had climbed it. "Doing some guiding work?" he asked me. "No, just for the sport of it/' told him. "I had the opportunity to tag on to a Georgian expedition and made a

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